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Cost Guide

How Much Does Exterior Work Cost in Minnesota?

Roofing, siding, window, and deck cost ranges for the northwest Twin Cities metro. Broken out by service, since exterior work covers four very different projects with their own budgets and timelines.

M.R. Renovations' exterior projects across Maple Grove and the northwest Twin Cities metro generally run from about $9,000 for a straightforward roof replacement to $60,000 or more for a full exterior package that combines roofing, siding, windows, and a deck. Because "exterior work" spans four very different services, each with its own materials, labor, and timeline, the ranges below are broken out by service rather than by a single scope ladder.

Where your project lands depends on the size and complexity of your home, the materials you choose, how much of the old surface has to come off, and whether storm damage is involved. This guide walks through each service, what moves the price, how to choose materials that hold up to Minnesota winters, and how storm-damage insurance claims work in this state.

Cost by service

  • Roofing$9,000--$28,000

    Tear-off and full replacement of an asphalt shingle roof on a typical northwest-metro home, including underlayment, flashing, and ventilation. Steep or complex rooflines, added stories, and premium or metal systems run higher.

  • Siding$18,000--$50,000

    Full-house James Hardie fiber cement or engineered lap siding with new house wrap, trim, soffit, and fascia. Larger two-story homes and full ColorPlus packages run toward the top of the range.

  • Windows & Doors$12,000--$40,000+

    Full-house replacement of roughly 10 to 20 Marvin windows rated for Minnesota's climate, plus entry or patio doors. Custom sizes and specialty shapes run higher.

  • Decks$12,000--$45,000+

    A new Trex composite deck with aluminum or cable railing and code-compliant framing and footings. Elevated, multi-level, or large decks run toward the top of the range.

Most homeowners bundle two or more of these. Roof and siding together after a storm is the most common exterior package we complete. Storm damage is often covered by insurance, and we coordinate directly with your adjuster.

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What drives the price

Exterior pricing comes down to four shared levers: the material tier you choose, the size and complexity of the surface, whatever hidden damage turns up once the old material is off, and the permits your city requires. How each one plays out differs by service.

Roofing. Cost scales with roof area (measured in squares) and pitch. A steep, cut-up roof with valleys, dormers, skylights, and multiple chimneys takes far more labor and flashing than a simple gable. Tearing off multiple old layers, replacing rotted decking, and adding the code-required ice-and-water shield that guards against Minnesota ice dams all add up, and the shingle line, whether architectural asphalt versus designer or standing-seam metal, sets the material floor.

Siding. Wall square footage and the number of stories, corners, and window openings drive the labor, since every penetration means cutting and trim. Fiber cement (James Hardie) costs more than vinyl but lasts decades in this climate; a factory ColorPlus finish, new house wrap, added foam insulation, and the soffit, fascia, and trim scope all move the number, as does replacing any sheathing that has rotted behind the old siding.

Windows and doors. Price tracks the opening count and the frame and glass package, whether vinyl versus fiberglass versus Marvin wood-clad, and double- versus triple-pane Low-E glass built for Minnesota winters. Full-frame replacement costs more than a pocket insert but lets us fix rot and re-flash the opening; custom sizes, specialty shapes, and patio or entry doors each carry a premium.

Decks. Square footage and height set the base. An elevated or multi-level deck needs deeper frost footings (Minnesota's frost line runs about 42 inches), more framing, stairs, and code-compliant guardrails. Composite boards (Trex) with aluminum or cable railing cost more than pressure-treated wood but last far longer, and built-ins like benches, lighting, pergolas, or skirting each add to the total.

Two factors cut across all four: hidden repairs, meaning rot in sheathing, fascia, or rim joists that only surfaces once the old material is off, plus timing. Storm-damage roofing and siding are frequently offset by an insurance claim, and we coordinate directly with your adjuster.

Where the money goes

Materials
40--50%
Labor
30--40%
Tear-off & disposal
5--10%
Permits & inspections
3--5%
Contingency (hidden repairs)
8--12%

Directional shares of a typical exterior project. Roofing skews toward labor and disposal, while windows and Hardie siding skew toward materials.

Choosing materials that hold up to Minnesota winters

In Minnesota, material choice is as much about surviving freeze-thaw cycles, ice dams, hail, and 90-degree summer-to-winter temperature swings as it is about looks. Spending a little more up front on climate-rated materials usually lowers what you spend on repairs and energy over the life of the home.

Roofing. Architectural (dimensional) asphalt shingles are the northwest-metro default. They carry higher wind and impact ratings than old 3-tab shingles and typically last 25 to 30 years. Systems from manufacturers like GAF pair the shingle with ice-and-water shield at the eaves and valleys, proper ridge ventilation, and optional impact-resistant (Class 4) shingles that can earn an insurance discount. Standing-seam metal costs more up front but sheds snow, resists ice dams, and can last 40 to 50 years.

Siding. Vinyl is the lowest-cost option but can grow brittle in deep cold and fade over time. James Hardie fiber cement is engineered for cold, wet climates. It resists moisture, pests, and warping, holds its factory ColorPlus finish for 15-plus years, and stands up well to hail and fire. Engineered wood products such as LP SmartSide sit between the two on price. Whatever the cladding, it is the house wrap and flashing behind it that actually keep a Minnesota wall dry.

Windows. Double-pane Low-E glass with argon fill is the practical baseline for Minnesota; triple-pane adds insulation and noise reduction and makes the most sense on north- and west-facing walls that take the winter wind. Vinyl frames offer the best value, while fiberglass and wood-clad frames (such as Marvin) add durability and a higher-end look. Check the U-factor: the lower the number, the better the window holds heat in a Minnesota January.

Decks. Pressure-treated pine is the budget choice but needs regular sealing and can check and splinter after a few Minnesota winters. Composite decking (Trex and similar) costs more up front but shrugs off moisture, fading, and freeze-thaw with almost no maintenance, which is why most homeowners planning to stay in the home choose it. Aluminum and cable railings also outlast wood by years in this climate.

Storm damage, hail, and insurance claims

Minnesota sees regular hail and high-wind events, and storm damage is one of the most common reasons homeowners here replace a roof or siding. If a storm has damaged your home, much of the cost may be covered by your homeowner's insurance rather than paid out of pocket, which can change the math on the ranges above entirely.

It helps to note the date of the storm, photograph any visible damage, and have a contractor inspect the roof and siding before you file. M.R. Renovations provides a written inspection, meets your insurance adjuster on-site, and supplies certificates of insurance for the claim. We hold Minnesota Residential Contractor license BC809200 and pull every required permit.

One caution: be wary of any contractor who offers to waive or "eat" your insurance deductible, or who pressures you to sign before an adjuster has seen the damage. Both are red flags, and waiving a deductible is illegal in Minnesota. A reputable contractor documents the real scope and lets the claim run its course.

Timeline

How long the work takes depends on the service. These are typical on-site durations for a single-trade project on a northwest-metro home, weather permitting:

Roofing. A typical roof replacement takes 1 to 2 days.

Siding. A full-house siding project runs 3 to 5 days.

Windows and doors. A full-house window replacement takes 3 to 7 days, depending on the number of openings.

Decks. A new composite deck runs 5 to 10 days, with elevated or multi-level builds toward the top of that range.

A full exterior package combines several of these, so the trades run back-to-back, plus any structural repair uncovered along the way. You receive a written schedule before work begins, and weather-related adjustments are communicated in advance.

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